Starfish 12 inch Granny Square
The Starfish Granny Square
This fun square works up fast and is a great way to use up some worsted weight yarn you have laying around. Depending on the look you want you can use 1, 2 or 3 colors to make these squares. The pattern is for 3 colors and indicates where you need to switch colors. Using the suggested hook and weight of yarn you will get a 12 inch square (measured diagonally).
Worsted Weight (4) yarn in three colors (I used RedHeart brand)
5 mm crochet hook
Darning Needle (for the ends)
Stitch Markers (optional)
Chain = CH
Slip Stitch = SLST
Single Crochet = SC
Half Double Crochet = HDC
Double Crochet = DC
Front Post Double Crochet = FPDC
Front Post Double Trebel = FPDT
Skills to Practice
If you haven’t done front post crochet before I suggest practicing this stitch a few times before making your final product. The Double Trebel stitch is not as intimidating as it sounds and it gives this a raised texture that brings the starfish to life. Finally if you haven’t carried a color before in a tapestry crochet you will want to practice the best way to carry the color you are not using. A tip for switching colors, loop in the next color on the last pull through to complete your stitch.
Let's Get Crocheting!
This pattern gives you a 12” (measured diagonally) granny square with a raised starfish pattern. You will need three colors of yarn in your choice. Color 1 (C1) will be your starfish color. Color 2 (C2) is the background of your square. Color 3 (C3) is your border color. I like to use C3 to join all the squares but as always, it’s up to you, get creative!
This pattern is worked in rounds. The CH3 counts as a post/stitch in most rounds. If you are confused at any point check the picture for reference.
Using C1, create your slip knot and CH 4,
SLST into the first chain to create the ring.
CH 3 (this is your first post),
make 11 DC into the Ring,
SLST to the top of the CH3.
Chain 3 in C1, Switch to C2, DC in the same space, DC in next stich.
*Switch to C1, DC in the same stich, 1 DC in next stich, switch to C2, DC in the same stich, 1 DC in next stich,*
Repeat * to * until you have 24 posts.
Your last DC should be in C1. SLST into the top of the CH3 to end the round.
Each stich from R1 will have a DC in each color and you will have two DC in the same color together all around.
In round 3 we start building the starfish using FPDT crochet into round 1. If you haven’t done a double treble before, you wrap the yarn around the hook 3 times.
Start by CH3 in C1, FPDT on the first post of round 1 (the CH3) [marking that with a stitch marker may help if you get confused]
Switch to C2, DC in next 3 stitches
Switch to C1, FPDT on the first post of round 1 behind the previous FPDT. [see the picture] *DC in next stich, FPDT on the third post of round 1, Switch to C2, DC in next 3 stitches, Switch to C1, FPDT on the third post of round 1 behind the previous FPDT*
Repeat * to * on posts 5, 7, 9 and 11 from Round 1
SLST the FPDT to the CH3
CH3 in C1, Switch to C2.
*DC in next 2 stitches, 3 DC in next stitch, DC in next 2 stitches, switch to C1, DC in next stitch, switch to C2*
Repeat * to * to end, SLST to top CH3You have 48 Posts
CH3 in C2, *switch to C1, DC in next stitch, FPDT around the FPDT in Round 3 to the right of the CH3, FPDT around the FPDT in Round 3 to the left of the CH3, Switch to C2, DC in the next 7 stitches*
Repeat * to * to end but the last repeat you only DC in 6 stitches. SLST to CH3
|You are now done with C1. You can tie off that color and as you work Round 6 crochet over the end of C1 so you don’t have to sew it in later.
At this point you should have a circle with a starfish in C1. Now we will turn this circle into a square!
To help with keeping track of where you are put a stitch marker in your first SC.
Working in C2 only, CH1, SC in same space, SC in next 2 stitches, *HDC in next, DC in next, CH8, skip two stitches, DC in next, HDC, in next, SC in next 9 stitches* Repeat * to * two times
HDC in next, DC in next, CH8, skip two stitches, DC in next, HDC, in next, SC in next 6
SLST in first SC
To help with keeping track of where you are put a stitch marker in your first DC.
Chain 3, DC in next 5 stitches,
*Do 5 DC in the chain space, CH3, 5 more DC in the chain space, DC in next 13 stitches*
Repeat * to * two times
You have 4 small chain spaces with 23 stitches between each
Round 8To help with keeping track of where you are put a stitch marker in your first DC.
Chain 3, DC in next, FPDC in next, alternate every other to the corner chain space.
*2 DC in the chain space, CH3, 2 DC in Chain Space.
FPDC in next, DC in next, alternate every other to the corner chain space*
Repeat * to * until you are all the way around. SLST to first DC. Tie off C2 and cut your yarn leaving a tail to sew over or weave in.
You have 4 small chain spaces with 27 stitches between each
Round 9This round is a finishing edge. Depending on how you want to connect your squares you could skip this round. I like using it as it defines the square shape even more.
In C3, SC in each stich around the square doing 5 SC in each corner chain space.
Tie off C3 and cut your yarn leaving a tail to weave in.