Starfish 12 inch Granny Square


The Starfish Granny Square

This fun square works up fast and is a great way to use up some worsted weight yarn you have laying around.  Depending on the look you want you can use 1, 2 or 3 colors to make these squares.  The pattern is for 3 colors and indicates where you need to switch colors.  Using the suggested hook and weight of yarn you will get a 12 inch square (measured diagonally).

Materials Needed

Worsted Weight (4) yarn in three colors (I used RedHeart brand)
5 mm crochet hook
Scissors
Darning Needle (for the ends)
Stitch Markers (optional)

Stitches Used

Chain = CH
Slip Stitch = SLST
Single Crochet = SC
Half Double Crochet = HDC
Double Crochet = DC
Front Post Double Crochet = FPDC
Front Post Double Trebel = FPDT

Skills to Practice

If you haven’t done front post crochet before I suggest practicing this stitch a few times before making your final product.  The Double Trebel stitch is not as intimidating as it sounds and it gives this a raised texture that brings the starfish to life.  Finally if you haven’t carried a color before in a tapestry crochet you will want to practice the best way to carry the color you are not using.  A tip for switching colors, loop in the next color on the last pull through to complete your stitch.

Let's Get Crocheting!

This pattern gives you a 12” (measured diagonally) granny square with a raised starfish pattern.  You will need three colors of yarn in your choice.  Color 1 (C1) will be your starfish color.  Color 2 (C2) is the background of your square.  Color 3 (C3) is your border color.  I like to use C3 to join all the squares but as always, it’s up to you, get creative!

This pattern is worked in rounds.  The CH3 counts as a post/stitch in most rounds.  If you are confused at any point check the picture for reference.

Round 1

Using C1, create your slip knot and CH 4,
SLST into the first chain to create the ring. 
CH 3 (this is your first post),
make 11 DC into the Ring,
SLST to the top of the CH3.

You have 12 Posts

Round 2

Chain 3 in C1, Switch to C2, DC in the same space, DC in next stich.  
*Switch to C1, DC in the same stich, 1 DC in next stich, switch to C2, DC in the same stich, 1 DC in next stich,* 
Repeat * to * until you have 24 posts. 
Your last DC should be in C1.  SLST into the top of the CH3 to end the round. 
Each stich from R1 will have a DC in each color and you will have two DC in the same color together all around.

You have 24 Posts


Round 3

In round 3 we start building the starfish using FPDT crochet into round 1.  If you haven’t done a double treble before, you wrap the yarn around the hook 3 times. 

Start by CH3 in C1, FPDT on the first post of round 1 (the CH3) [marking that with a stitch marker may help if you get confused]
Switch to C2, DC in next 3 stitches

Switch to C1, FPDT on the first post of round 1 behind the previous FPDT. [see the picture]  *DC in next stich, FPDT on the third post of round 1, Switch to C2, DC in next 3 stitches, Switch to C1, FPDT on the third post of round 1 behind the previous FPDT*

Repeat * to * on posts 5, 7, 9 and 11 from Round 1
SLST the FPDT to the CH3

You have 36 Posts

Round 4

CH3 in C1, Switch to C2.

*DC in next 2 stitches, 3 DC in next stitch, DC in next 2 stitches, switch to C1, DC in next stitch, switch to C2*

Repeat * to * to end, SLST to top CH3
You have 48 Posts

Round 5

CH3 in C2, *switch to C1, DC in next stitch, FPDT around the FPDT in Round 3 to the right of the CH3, FPDT around the FPDT in Round 3 to the left of the CH3, Switch to C2, DC in the next 7 stitches*

Repeat * to * to end but the last repeat you only DC in 6 stitches. SLST to CH3

You have 60 Posts



You are now done with C1.  You can tie off that color and as you work Round 6 crochet over the end of C1 so you don’t have to sew it in later.  

At this point you should have a circle with a starfish in C1.  Now we will turn this circle into a square!

Round 6

To help with keeping track of where you are put a stitch marker in your first SC.

Working in C2 only, CH1, SC in same space, SC in next 2 stitches, *HDC in next, DC in next, CH8, skip two stitches, DC in next, HDC, in next, SC in next 9 stitches*  Repeat * to * two times

HDC in next, DC in next, CH8, skip two stitches, DC in next, HDC, in next, SC in next 6
SLST in first SC

You have 4 large chain spaces with 13 stitches between each

Round 7

To help with keeping track of where you are put a stitch marker in your first DC.

Chain 3, DC in next 5 stitches, 

*Do 5 DC in the chain space, CH3, 5 more DC in the chain space, DC in next 13 stitches*

Repeat * to * two times

Do 5 DC in the chain space, CH3, 5 more DC in the chain space, DC in next 8 stitches, SLST to first DC

You have 4 small chain spaces with 23 stitches between each

Round 8

To help with keeping track of where you are put a stitch marker in your first DC.

Chain 3, DC in next, FPDC in next, alternate every other to the corner chain space. 

*2 DC in the chain space, CH3, 2 DC in Chain Space. 

FPDC in next, DC in next, alternate every other to the corner chain space*

Repeat * to * until you are all the way around.  SLST to first DC.  Tie off C2 and cut your yarn leaving a tail to sew over or weave in.

You have 4 small chain spaces with 27 stitches between each

Round 9

This round is a finishing edge.  Depending on how you want to connect your squares you could skip this round.  I like using it as it defines the square shape even more.

In C3, SC in each stich around the square doing 5 SC in each corner chain space.

Tie off C3 and cut your yarn leaving a tail to weave in.



Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Butterfly Corner to Corner Blanket

meu mundo mandala Rounds 31 and on